Category: Blog

  • Where Have All the Cheap (Parts) Pens Gone?

    The last few years have been ones of what seems like fast-paced change. covid? Come and gone. Politics? In turmoil. The worldwide economy? Bouncing around like a pinball machine. And in keeping with other world events, we have noticed some changes in how people find, buy, and sell pens as well. These changes, sadly, have had a major impact on how vintage pen repair can work.

    Boring History

    When we started to be involved in pen sales and repair, about 15 years ago, finding pens was pretty easy. If you went to an antique show or mall, you could come out with a half dozen or more good-quality pens in hand, often for $20-50 each. Sure, they needed to be cleaned and have the filling system repaired, but they were always there.

    Additionally, ebay was established as a good source of pens, although costs would be higher due to shipping. But, again, good wares were to be had, with a bit of patience. Pen shows were starting up everywhere across North America, and you could find tables covered with pens, new and old. And you could often negotiate a good price, especially as you got to know various vendors and collectors.

    However, with social media came the drive to make a profit, often driven by special interests. Forums started to make people more aware of pricing, and many hobbyists became business-people. And newly interested people of all ages swarmed in, as they discovered they could start a self-funding hobby without much effort.

    Waterman's Ink
    Ebay listing- $1500 for a pen that may not work? This is not helping.

    Around this time, there were reports of swarms of visor-toting young men descending on pen shows to clear out all the Parker 51s. Inflated ebay prices meant that antique dealers started to ask $200 for a broken pen, rather than $30. But ebay had changed from an auction site for pens to to one dominated by ‘buy it now’ listings, with higher and higher prices sitting for longer and longer periods of time.

    covid hit, and home confinement turbocharged the process of changing hobbyists in to internet-based money makers. Then inflation skyrocketed, so the price of everything went up, and up, and up.

    Where Are We Now?

    By now things are a bit different. Well, a lot different.

    When we recently attended the biggest outdoor antique show in Canada, we found one pen. (A nice Parker 51.) We could have bought a second pen, but demand for that brand is far lower, so the price didn’t work. But, to be fair, it was there. Several hundred vendors, thousands of attendees, and no pens.

    We don’t find pens in antique malls any more, other than possibly, occasionally, a single sad, very broken third-tier-manufacturer one. Not even good pens for parts. Just an empty pen desert.

    Waterman's Ink
    We used to find great Waterman’s ink stuff in antique malls. We used to find Waterman’s ink in Canada…

    In the new pen world, there are loads of inexpensive ‘starter’ pen brands. And there are many, many (expensive) boutique ink makers. But Waterman’s Canada stopped selling bottled ink, for the first time in over 100 years.

    In the vintage pen world, no one is making parts for anything, with few exceptions. There are a very few people making latex sacs and specialty washers. (By “few”, I mean count-them-on-one-hand few.) And generic pressure bars that fit most (but not all) pens. But not feeds, caps, cap rings, clips, nibs, buttons, or piston parts. These need a skilled hand, and are made in batches of one or two, on-demand if at all.

    On the bright side, a dedicated pen auction house has opened up (North American Pen Auctions). In the interests of full disclosure, it is run by a friend and colleague of mine here in Toronto. It has been very successful, and that has shed some light on some of the impacts of these other changes, and where things are headed.

    There is another side to the auction house development, though. A solid supply of pens “in the wild” has always come from estate sales. Antique ‘pickers’ used to line up at dawn, then muscle their way through estate sales, picking up anything that seemed of value, often by the box-load. These items would be channeled to ebay, antique mall booths, and flea markets. Because these ‘pickers’ knew little of specific values, you could find a pen for $20, that the ‘picker’ had bought for $1.

    There are an increasing number of online auction services that target the estate sale market. Now, items are listed without an open house, and they are offered instantly around the world. Anyone browsing these listings is rubbing shoulders with folks with specific interests and far better ideas of current values. And so estate sales have ceased to be a meaningful source of lower-cost pens, or parts pens.

    What Defines Value?

    Everyone is familiar with the old axiom “collect what you love!” But few know the other half of the statement: “because anything you buy, regardless of price, will be devalued by 90% as soon as you take possession of it. So love is really the only payback.” No, really, that is actually a truth known by investment professionals, and never admitted by collectors or retailers of anything.

    Traditionally, vintage pen collectors have been mostly of a certain demographic: older (cough, cough, boomers, cough), paler, and wealthier. Often from among the ranks of professionals, they were able to travel to pen shows, and well-heeled enough to buy whatever struck their fancy.

    A booth at a US pen show, circa 2015.
    Is this a collection? Or a shop? Why not both?!

    We have been shown collections of hundreds of Parker prototypes, multiple portfolios of full-overlay Conklins (the stars are pretty), and boxes upon boxes of unopened Montblanc ‘Limited Editions’, all held by folks meeting this description. And everyone has a few boxes of by-blows: broken parts pens, of various brands. Sometimes there are hoards of new-old-stock parts from Ye Olden Times of Janesville (Parker) or Fort Madison (Sheaffer’s). And these collections all have one thing in common: the owners have a definite opinion of their value.

    Say, for example, you have collected pens for years. You grew a network of friends, colleagues, and events related to this interest. You slowly grew your knowledge, and curated an excellent collection of your favourite pens. You kept to makers of what you considered the best quality. And you found some great underpriced treasures, as well as a few that you just had to have, regardless of cost. You justified it, if not to yourself to your loved ones, by explaining that these are also, in fact, a “good investment”. And this just makes sense. They aren’t making the goods anymore (low supply). And more and more people are interested in collecting them (high demand). Everyone knows about supply and demand, right?

    When Supply & Demand Get Fuzzy

    To be fair, this could describe many collectors: art, vintage tools, classic cars. But the one thing that all collectors have also done is collect pricing information. This formerly came from physical price guides. Then it transmorphed into ebay listings. Then auction houses started saving all ‘prices realized’, no matter how minor the item (as a way of attracting traffic to their sites. A “value-added” approach.) And because the internet has allowed everyone to compare notes, it has ended up being the largest price collusion exercise in history.

    And this begs an anecdote.

    An Anecdote:

    Just before the internet (yes, that long ago), we tried bookselling. First editions, although this was realistically just whatever we could scout out that was underpriced. And, being pre-internet, this meant memorizing authors, titles, and ways of designating editions. It also meant finding customers, in our case booksellers with a physical shop (remember bookshops?)

    We got to know one crusty older fellow in Toronto’s bookseller’s row. And one day he confided that he had been consulted by the authors of The Authoritative price guide for rare books, specifically because of his intimacy with Canadian literature.

    Now, he absolutely did know his prices on CanLit. And every one he submitted was soundly rejected. Why? The reasoning went: ‘Our price guide gets re-issued every seven to ten years. Therefore, you must provide the highest possible price, in the most exclusive market, and then index it to speculated inflation for ten years from now. That is the price we will put in our book.’

    Using this formula, his estimate of $75 for a first edition copy of “The Handmaid’s Tale” would become:

    • $100 (because it might be signed),
    • $150 (because it might be sold in New York’s Antiquarian Book Fair), and then,
    • $200 (guessing 5% inflation over ten years, then rounding up because we like easy-to-remember numbers.)

    To his credit, he couldn’t stomach the whole thing and walked away from the authors, and some easy money & prestige. I always liked him.

    (As a summary note to this anecdote, five years later books started to be listed online. Everyone realized that many “rare” books were actually quite common. Prices crashed due to huge supply, and many bookshops went out of business.) Our crusty old friend just retired.

    The point is this: When humans are involved, things always get messy. It’s always humans who are buying and collecting things, and there is nothing prone to messy like deciding the value of what you have sitting around you. So, those ebay prices? “Buy It Now”s that were never sold. The auction values? The only two guys who wanted it were there that day. The price guide? Well, see our anecdote above for that one.

    “Cognitive dissonance” is a phrase describing the conflict in your head when your reality hits hard into actual reality. And people often will deny actual reality, as a means of not going crazy. This may not make much sense, until you are faced with cognitive dissonance yourself.

    A thing that no one ever, ever wants to talk about (read: block out of existence) is the cost of finding a buyer. For one pen, let alone a thousand. It can take years to disperse a collection. And most of the interested people already have a collection already. Young people don’t have a job, let alone a career with disposable income. Or a house, for that matter. The foreign market? There is no foreign market, just the big ol’ internet, that everyone in the whole wide world buys from.

    Another let’s-agree-not-to-think-about-it factor is that everyone wants a cut of the preconceived profit: the collector themself; their family; the auctioneer or retail shop; and the buyer (so they can re-sell and use the profits for their actual pen interests.) Multiply this by every single pen. If they move in “lots”, to use auction parlance, they go for lower prices, which then get accordingly diluted.

    A good auction house can provide a reasonable solution, though. A collector can consign pens in quantity to a person who knows pens like they do. For a reasonable percentage the auction can market globally, and you get an e-deposit a few weeks later. And this sort of auction is what gets hoards (supply) moving again. Although prices are higher than pens found ‘in the wild’ (ie: antique shops and estate sales), they are at least available. And the collector will realize about 40-60% of what they have invested. (-60% investment, anyone? Going once…going twice…) But auctioning is easy, and fast, and these two factors convince many people.

    All of these factors, and more, make the simple supply & demand equation fall right over in a heap. And that means that years of collecting, and all the money spent on it, is not actually invested. It is mostly just spent.

    How Finding Parts Works

    With a lack of “in the wild” pens, we are increasingly relying on auctions. Because parts pens at auction get sold in “lots” of multiples, it means that someone looking for a single part for a single customer’s pen must buy five or ten pens to get it. And that’s not always realistic.

    NAPA parts pens listing
    A lot of parts pens, sold for $225. This is, actually, helping.

    As an example, a lot of five non-functional Parker 51s might sell for $200 on a great day (plus buyer’s premium, plus shipping. Call it $250?) If all you need is that cedar blue demi-sized hood, you then have to carry the other $210 of cost for five years, until you use all the parts. And if it is a not-as-desireable-as-a-51 pen like, say, an Eclipse, you will be carrying $140 for ten years. Times the number of pens you are looking for at any given time. That could work out like this:

    • three customers this month needing a part you don’t have, times
    • $150-250 for a parts lot at auction, less the $20-50 you can charge immediately for the part, times
    • 12 months in a year, equals
    • $1500-$2400 of parts, per year, held indefinitely.

    You also have to factor in storage space for those parts, and time to clean and process and organize them. If you are in business for ten years, that is an investment of $15,000-$24,000, just for parts. Is $15,000 a good investment if it is for something that might never sell, takes up space, and needs insurance?

    So what is the point of all this whining?

    Finally! What Does This Have To Do With Parts Pens?

    Parts pens inhabit a funny corner of pen collecting. They are the pens that need so much repair that their value as a whole, functioning pen is compromised. Like the Waterman red ripple with the broken lever box: $250 in repairs, plus $75 purchase price, for a pen worth $250, or less? It just doesn’t make sense. Unless you are a repair person.

    A pen mechanic will see a clean cap with a good clip ($50), a viable nib ($100), a solid barrel ($40), a pressure bar inside ($15), and a section and feed ($25). A $75 pen yields over $200 of usable parts, and you might just have a spare lever box in the bin, too.

    Don't try this at home-or anywhere else!
    Unrealistic internet-fueled expectations: don’t try this at home-or anywhere else!

    But what if someone imagines that one day this broken pen will be worth $500? Or what if they just read about fabulous Waterman flexy nibs (and don’t have enough experience to know this one is semi-flex) and will use it as a dip pen, for funsies and Instagram hits? Or what if they imagine they will one day repair pens and want this as a learning experience?

    And this is the tough situation we are in now. There are many pen hoards held by older folks who want to make what they perceive as a good profit, or else they will just sit on them. Which means they sit on them for a long, long time, because the perceived profit is unrealistic, and hope springs eternal.

    And there are many new collectors who want to amass the sort of hoard that was once available, and have a share in the perceived profits, but can’t find the pens. So when they do find a pen, it is second- or third-rate, but they snap it up, and treasure it anyways. (To be fair, who is anyone to diss someone’s treasure, however it compares?)

    And there are some folks who will buy pens, then just send them to the repair person who is then expected to spend hours sourcing parts, and then make them whole, no matter how busted they are. (Not kidding. We recently had a Parker 61 where the only part viable on the pen was the nib. They were adamant in wanting it “repaired”, and wanted all the old parts back. We tried, but ended up sending it back. And no, there was no sentimental value, just a pen they had bought.)

    And this various new version of demand, coupled with artificial scarcity (remember hoards?), means that when we go looking for parts, there is just a desert. Which, in turn, means that our prices have to go up drastically. Not just because the parts we do have are increasingly dear, although there is that. But also because it can take hours of online effort, for months or years, to find a part that once might have been a phone call away. Or a trip to the antique mall. Or just a stroll over to the parts bin.

    On, Into the Future

    Does this mean that pens are a write-off? (Groan. Sorry.) By no means! Pens are great. We love pens. And we love repairing pens.

    But it does mean that there are almost no remaining bargains in vintage pens. It is a hobby for the comfortably well-off; it is a hobby for those who love pens. And not an investment, but a labour of love.

    It also means that the cost of repairs is up, across the board of repair people. And–we haven’t touched on this–the board is growing smaller as time goes on. We have finally risen our prices to be on par with our colleagues in the US; only the second time for a rise in 15 years. And defraying the cost of parts searches is part of that.

    However, we still treasure the times that we can restore a family pen to functionality. Or the odd time that a pristine pen, at a venerable 80 or 100 years old, comes across our bench.

    And there are a number of young people who have found, or inherited, great pens. And those pens sometimes take only a little to restore. And they are fully appreciated by their owners. In fact, a collection of five hard-won pens is likely more appreciated than a collection of 1,000 rarities bought with ease. And it is a joy to support and advise these newcomers. To occasionally dispel some confused ‘received wisdom’. And to see them sail into life with a solid appreciation for a solid and well-designed and beautiful pen.

    It makes up for a lot of frustration at things you just can’t do anything about. Doing something you can do something about.

  • Tool Day: Nothing Beats a Good Scale

    Ink “uptake” is the term we use to describe how much ink is drawn into a pen’s reservoir when you fill it. While knowing theThis Vacumatic maxima holds a whopping 1.96 mL of ink! ink capacity of a pen is good, for a repair person, knowing it’s uptake is better. A pen with a capacity of 0.75 milliliter (mL) should draw in about that much ink. If you can measure how much ink actually gets drawn in, that is an important first step in diagnosing any number of problems (which are fodder for a future post). For many repair technicians, one of the final steps in approving a pen’s successful repair is to test the filling system.

    So, what is the best way to test a pen’s ink uptake?

    Many opinions, few solutions

    There are many, many ways that people test ink uptake. In a pen with a clear barrel or window, you can simply look at the level and guess. Some people will fill the pen, then watch how much is expelled when it is emptied. On fellow we met counted the drops that fell off the nib!

    In our experience there is only one reasonable and effective solution: a good digital scale.

    Why a Scale?

    There is one over-riding reason for using a scale to measure ink uptake: accuracy.

    The reason we can rely on a scale so definitively is because of physics. One mL of water weighs exactly one gram. So with ink being almost entirely water (in terms of mass), one mL of ink weighs one gram. If you zero out (tare) your scale with the empty pen on it, fill it, and put it back on the scale, you can easily see how much ink your pen has taken up.

    Considering that even a tenth of a gram takes up a fair bit of space in a sac or converter, we prefer a scale that reads to two decimals. Fortunately, they are pretty easy to find right now.

    We bought this one off Amazon (where brand names mean nothing; go by description instead), and they presently sell for less than Cdn$35. You can find similar ones in corner stores across inner city North America, thanks to the ever-increasing demand by the cannabis business (who would have thought?)

    What sort of features are good? Here are a few:

    • Rechargeable, because who wants to buy batteries?;
    • Reads to two decimals. Easily toggles between grams and ounces (which are far, far less accurate);
    • Has little covers, which can be used upside down to prevent things from rolling around;
    • The table size is medium, which means it can be used for other things.

    Which other things, you may ask?

    • Baking (especially salt quantities);
    • Weighing out small amounts of epoxy;
    • Soap & cosmetics making;
    • Calculating postage cost (so old-fashioned!);
    • Other things you might think of.

    A good scale is one of our most-used tools, used for every repair job. While not often mentioned in connection with pen repairs, one should be on every bench.

  • Scriptus 2023

    Scriptus 2023

    Scriptus 2017
    Our table, six years ago. Much has changed, but not the crowd!

    Scriptus, Toronto’s pen & writing show, is almost here! After a lapse of several years, we are happy to be attending again. We will be at table #19, in the middle (“prologue” room).

    We will be doing on-site repairs only this year. From the sounds of it, we will be the only ones offering this service, so it may be a bit busy! It looks like there will be around 70 vendors attending, so there should be something for everyone. As usual, there will be pens and pencils, old & new, paper products, and a wide variety of inks.

    The show is at the Toronto Reference Library, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission is free. For more information, the show’s website is: https://www.scriptusinc.com

  • Talc and Asbestos

    For over a century talc has been used as a standard dry lubricant for rubber fountain pen sacs. The slippery mineral dust helps to protect the sac from friction damage when it is depressed by a pressure bar. This lubrication is also essential for Parker Vacumatics and other pens where a sac is folded in on itself; rubber sticks to itself, and the mechanisms of these pens simply do not work without lubrication.

    Talcum Powder
    Talcum Powder

    In recent years there has been a great deal of attention given to the possibility of asbestos content in talc products. Asbestos is often found in the same deposits as talc (http://dx.doi.org/10.18103/mra.v8i5.2097), and has been proven to be a carcinogen (cancer-causing). While there are cosmetic-grade talcs, it is recommended that any talc without reputable certification as asbestos-free be assumed hazardous (Asbestos in Talc Powders and Soapstone – the Present State [2007]).

    I like my lungs. And suddenly the little puff of white coming out of a lever slit after you have replaced a sac feels ominous, instead of satisfying. None of the talc suppliers I have contacted seem able to provide information about sources, or safety. So, following the excellent advice of the German government (see link above), Restorers Art is immediately discontinuing the use of talc as a sac lubricant.

    An Excellent Alternative

    All this being said, there is good news! There is an excellent alternative dry sac lubricant.

    The Ka'bah-e Zardusht
    The Ka’bah-e Zardusht, a lifetime supply of chalk–if demolished.

    The personal care industry turned to the use of vegetable starches, like corn starch, as an alternative to talc. We investigated that as an option. We found the particle size too large, and starches turn gummy if wet, which is a terrible quality for our application (think pen leak here: eeeew!)

    We have, however, found an excellent alternative: precipitated calcium carbonate (CaCO3). This is a powdered chalk produced from limestone, and has been used for centuries in bookbinding and shoemaking. Particle size ranges from 0.2-30 μm (compared to talc at 0.2-100 μm). The “precipitated” description means that the chalk has been purified and contains nothing but CaCO3.

    We have done our own experimenting (the best kind!) and created a slurry of CaCO3 in filtered water. We let the water evaporate, then tested the newly dried CaCO3. The wetting-drying cycle did not seem to affect the lubricating quality of the lubricant in any way. Which for us is a big win! It does not dissolve in water, but rather forms a suspension.

    This slurry has a pH of about 9.0, which is alkaline. This is actually good for us, because the interior of a pen is damaged far less by alkaline conditions than acidic. (As an example, steel pressure bars, buttons, springs, or nibs will rust very quickly in acid fumes, and even corrode right away when bathed in acid. Alkali won’t affect these materials this way.)

    Another advantage is that CaCO3 is inexpensive, and fairly easily available. And a 100 gram bag will be enough to last for years of new sacs.

    While the chances of contracting cancer from a bit of talc in a fountain pen may be minimal, we like to play it safe. CaCO3 is a cheap, effective, and available alternative. So why not choose safe? After all, with all the nasty chemicals out there, there is nothing wrong with making sure the pens we carry with us, and use every day, are the safest things around!

  • What’s Wrong With My Parker Pencil?

    When it comes to congenital defects, time always tells. This past week we have had four Parker pencils on the bench, and each had the same problem. And that problem was the result of a design flaw that would only reveal itself over time.

    The Design

    Original Mordan patent drawing, 1822

    From the time Sampson Mordan first patented the propelling pencil, in the early 1800s, most pencils used a helix-driven shuttle to propel, and eventually repel and expel, the lead. Parker used this design extensively until the 1940s, when they adopted the (far superior, in my opinion) German dual-clutch mechanism in the 51 aerometric pencils. Even then, they still used the helix-driven mechanism in some models. This system was used in, at least: Duofold, Challenger, 51, 21, 45, 61, 75, &c &c. Also, Sheaffer. Also, Waterman. You get the idea.

    In this design, the shuttle holds the lead, and travels up and down a slotted inner shaft. Two small knobs of brass protrude at right angles from the shuttle, and are long enough to pass through the slot in the long shaft and act as keys. (Note: “key” is the proper mechanical term. It sounds so much better than “knob” that I’m going to use it for the rest of this article.) This entire assembly fits inside a helical sleeve. When the helical sleeve is rotated, the keys from the shuttle are guided by it up and down the keyway (See? So much better than “knobway”!) that runs the length of the shaft.

    Here is a photo of all of the parts, which will hopefully help you to imagine it all together:

    Parker Pencil Breakdown

    And here, at the prompting of Apprentice Em, is a video to clarify further. The two spots I point out are the drive keys for the shuttle, inside the tube:

    The First Problem

    There are a couple of problems with this design, one minor and one major. First, the minor.

    Everything you see is made of brass. Brass is an excellent material generally, and has been used in small machines for centuries. However, brass tends to wear out when it is abraded. This is one reason, as an aside, that watches use jewels as pivot points: brass would wear too quickly.

    Also, like metals have an affinity for each other; they tend to stick. So, in very good designs, two parts which bear on each other tend to be made of unlike metals, like a steel shaft in a brass bushing. There is less material loss because the parts don’t want to stick together, and friction (thus wear) is minimized.

    So, in our pencil mechanism, you have a brass shuttle sliding along a brass track, with a brass helix driving it. Can you see where there might be an issue?

    The Second Problem

    This brings us to the second, far more substantial issue: the way the shuttle is made.

    In these pencils, the propel-repel-expel action was accomplished by means of a two-part shuttle. The shuttle consisted of an outer sleeve, with an inner shaft. The lead fits in the outer sleeve, and when the shuttle reaches the end of the action (when the lead is spent), the inner shaft is engaged, pushes forward, and pushes the last little bit of lead free. When the shuttle is retracted, the inner shaft retracts, allowing you to seat a new piece of lead in the now-empty socket.

    Parker pencil shuttle detail

    The inner shaft is simply a brass rod with the last few millimeters bent sideways, forming one of the keys that is engaged by the helix drive. This is not bad.

    The outer sleeve part of the shuttle is a flat piece of brass, about 0.25 mm thick. It is formed into a cylinder, into which the brass shaft fits (can you see the seam in the photo? It is all just press-fit into shape.) And this is the biggest issue: the main drive key is made of two flaps of this very thin sheet, pushed together. Now, a one millimeter piece of brass rod will take awhile to wear. But two 0.25 mm flats will wear much more quickly. And this is exactly what happens.

    The front key is the main drive point for the shuttle. Remember, the rear one only engages when the lead is spent and needs to be ejected. This means that the tiny part taking the brunt of the wear, and without which the lead cannot move in and out, is also the weakest part of the pencil.

    Parker pencil shuttle wear detail

    Here is a photo of a reasonably sound shuttle drive key, with a worn one above it (click to embiggen).

    What you can’t see is that, when you take apart most pencils of this design, both sides have worn away. Then they fold over, inside the slot in the inner shaft. Then the ejection shaft key is the only one engaged, and the next time you try to replace the lead, the ejection shaft won’t retract properly and you can’t ever fit a new piece of lead in place, ever!

    Hard Conclusions

    How many pencils are affected by this kind of debilitating wear? About 80% of what we have handled, several hundreds of pencils.

    Is there a repair? Nope. You can replace the worn part, if you can find a sound one. The only repair solution we can see is to use a micro-welder to weld on a new key: a nice, solid one. Which also means taking an hour to strip it all down, clean it, and assemble it again. But considering that the effort and equipment that would take is about the same as re-tipping a nib, or repairing a Waterman lever box, it’s not likely to happen, except as a labour of love. (Hmmm…$20, or $150? $20 and lovely, or $150, and also lovely? Such choices…)

    The sad truth is that many of the beautiful old pencils, matching beautiful old pens, are worn out. Because of a bad engineering choice, which maybe, just maybe, was part of planned obsolescence.

    Yard-o-led used a similar design, but far more robust parts. And the Germans, of course, used a completely different design with only one moving part, and no wear points. So if you want a good, beautiful, useful, robust vintage pencil, buy a Pelikan. ; )