Category: Blog

  • Cracked Wood: Problem, or No Problem?

    The other day, we came across a lovely writing box. We’ve seen all kinds, and sometimes we take them on, sometimes we don’t. But this one was nearly perfect. Around two hundred years old, and made for the aristocracy: solid rosewood case, mahogany interior; mother-of-pearl inlay and pewter stringing; ebony moulding along the perimeter of the lid; the obligatory secret compartments. And very little work required. We snapped it up, and within a week it is sitting for sale at one of Toronto’s most exclusive writing equipment boutiques.

    But one thing that came up when I discussed it with Peter, the shop’s owner, was: “what about the crack in the bottom. Does that concern you?”

    I gave a quick negative reply, got distracted, and moved on. But something stuck in the back of my mind. Why, exactly, would a crack in the wood not of concern? A crack in furniture is usually a problem. A crack in a window is always a problem. You fix problems, at least to make them look better. Why, exactly, is this crack not a concern? Why did I—almost instinctively—dismiss it?

    So I sat down and sent Peter an email with a good explanation. The one I should have given him at once. The one any customer buying a museum-quality heirloom writing box, fully restored, should have. And because it addresses so well the issues of conservation vs. cosmetic repair, I thought I would share the answer with everyone.

    The short answer is: no, the crack is not a concern. Here is the long answer:

    Wood still has life in it, even after it has been cut for years: it swells and shrinks with fluctuations in humidity, and nothing will prevent this. So, the important thing is to make sure that the movement is not causing damage.

    In the case of a box like this, it was constructed with no allowance for wood movement. As a result, cracks often appear, especially in large, flat pieces like tops and bottoms which have been glued solidly along the entire edge lengths. A crack will appear along the weakest point in the grain, and follow the grain. And certain woods (mahogany, ebony) are more prone to cracking than others.

    Once the crack has appeared, and especially if it has been there for years, the movement has generally done it’s job: released pressure at extremes of humidity. From that point forward, the gap will shrink or grow only in a repetitive way, like breathing. We know where it is. And we know how it will behave.

    As a conservator, one asks: does this crack i) cause further damage? ii) impact the object’s use? And: if we take steps to repair it, will the results be worse than if we leave it?

    In the case of this particular box, the crack is relatively small (about 1/8″ wide; nothing likely to be stored in that portion of the box will fall through it), discreet (in the bottom panel, with a piece of cloth glued to the bottom), and relatively stable.

    To repair it, we would have to completely disassemble half of the box, and glue the crack shut. Because the stress point changes with relative humidity, we would be transferring the stresses to another unknown point or points, which would only become evident over time, probably as a surprise to the owner. (As a side note, when one sees horrific cracking in antiques, it is usually either shoddy construction in the first place, or bad repair work done by the ignorant.)

    Thus, the crack is a concern, but a most minor one.

    As a postscript: thinking about repair in this way is often what differentiates the conservator from the casual or amateur repairer.

    It is a source of great irony to us that many antique dealers won’t bother to clean dust and dirt from their pieces, citing the all-powerful “patina”. Yet those same dealers will happily squish Gorilla Glue into a wobbly joint or crazy glue a crack down for the sake of making something seem in better condition than it really is; efforts with more lasting negative consequences than a good dusting would ever have!

    True conservation is a combination of things:

    • First, it is thought before action: What am I doing? Why am I doing it? Is it a good idea? Have I seen the results of this treatment before, or have my colleagues?
    • Second, it is a constant dance of cost vs. benefit—not in financial terms, but in the ethical sense: Does this truly need to be done? Why? Will the piece degrade if I don’t? Will it’s use be impacted negatively if I don’t? (Remember, display is a use, but so is using an item as the original maker intended.)
    • Third, it is skill & technique. Knowledge of original materials. Knowledge of the latest practices and methods. Balance between these two. Skill with tools. And, above all, patience and an eye for detail. Some of these can grow with time and experience, others must be cultivated, or come along with the right personality.
    • And finally, it is something motivated by more than money, or even the need to search for treasures. It is motivated by a deep respect for the pieces you work with, the people who made them, used them, and will one day continue caring for them. The man (it was almost certainly a man, although part of me hopes that a few daughters hung out in the back room of the shop, too) who carefully made the hidden mitered-dovetails that no one would ever see; the great Lord who carried his correspondence—in his trusty writing box—in the carriage from the town house to the country house; two hundred years of caretakers, who kept a box like this inside, clean and dry. If they could see the way a good conservator approaches the work, it should be worthy of a good nod of approval.

    It is important work, this. It is a rare work. But it is good, and it needs to go on.

  • Scriptus Toronto Pen and Writing Show

    We are pleased to announce the Scriptus Toronto Pen and Writing Show, to be held November 2, 2014.

    It is exciting to have a pen & writing show in Toronto again, the first since 2010. The plans are exciting: pens, old and new; fine papers, stationery and greeting cards; inks of every colour and kind. We plan to have over thirty vendors in attendance, from far and wide. There will be something for everyone, and then some!

    The venue is fabulous. The Appel salon—located on the second floor of the Toronto Reference Library—is both world-class, and the premier location for literary and specialty events in downtown Toronto. Just steps from the hub of the transit system, and close to one of the major traffic arteries, it is convenient for everyone. (And on a Sunday, traffic in minimal and parking is cheap!) In a newly-renovated space, and with a first-class coffee shop downstairs, Scriptus will be an enjoyable day for all.

    How can you keep up with Scriptus news and announcements? We are on Twitter (@ScriptusToronto), Facebook, and on the official Scriptus blog: http://www.scriptustoronto.com. (A spot in the sidebar puts you on our mailing list, to be notified right away when we post announcements.) Details to come include exhibitors lists, sponsorship opportunities, admission charge, and more.

  • On Lime Juice

    Oxidation is often our enemy. When oxygen contacts metals, it reacts with the surface atoms to form what is known scientifically as an oxide, but more commonly as rust, or tarnish. While in the case of some metals—such as copper—oxidation can result in a beautiful green colour, in the case of silver or iron it case cause damage.

    Especially in the case of iron or steel, rust causes pitting and weakening and can be very difficult to remove. We often run in to similar problems in the internal mechanisms of mechanical pencils, which are often made of brass. A build-up of oxidation can cause parts to seize together or become gummy.

    So, oxidation can be our enemy. Happily, the solution is simple, safe, and cheap: lime juice.

    Citric acid has long been known as a very effective chellation agent. In simple terms, this means that it literally removes the top layer of metal atoms; since the top layer of atoms is bound up with oxygen, as tarnish, this is a good thing.

    How to Use Lime Juice to Remove Rust and Tarnish

    • Pour together in a glass bowl: 1 part lime juice, 3 parts vinegar;
    • Microwave until warm (this speeds up the reaction time);
    • Submerge the tarnished item in the solution, and leave for about an hour (or as long as overnight);
    • Wash off the item with warm, soapy water, using a soft brush. A dark, almost sludgy layer will come off, leaving a dull layer of metal. Polish if desired.

    Using this method even stubborn and pitted steel and iron will come out clean, including the fiddly detail in Victorian cast iron. And while this method does remove metal, the amount is very negligible, most of which was beyond recovery, bound up with oxide atoms. (One word of caution: some gold plating can be very thin, especially if produced in the last 50 years or so. You might want to use another method on items like this.)

    An additional benefit is that this solution, although acidic (with a pH of about 3) is safe for plastics and wood, and won’t compromise many adhesives (cyanoacrylates, like “crazy glue” being a notable exception).

    As an aside, it’s quite amazing how much oxidation just a bit of this solution can remove. Even if it looks grey and sludgy, there is still quite a bit of reaction-power left in it.

    A Note on ‘Patina’

    Does this method affect the patina of a metal item? Yes, and no, depending on your definition of the word. Courtesy of the Oxford English Dictionary:

    Patina
    a. A thin coating or layer; spec. an incrustation on the surface of metal or stone, usually as a result of an extended period of weathering or burial; a green or bluish-green film produced naturally or artificially by oxidation on the surface of bronze and copper, consisting mainly of basic copper sulphate (cf. verdigris n.).
    Heintz Bowl

    Factory-produced patina
    from the early 20th C.
    Heintz Vase

    And in two colours!

    In this case, a resounding yes! Destructive oxidation will be gone. So will the brown colour that develops over a few weeks or months on copper, brass, or bronze.

    One notable warning: in some cases (particularly in “Arts & Crafts” metal pieces) a specific chemical finishing process was used in their manufacture, resulting in a highly-sought colouration. This method will remove that finish. This is the “patina” most misunderstood by antique dealers, many of whom use it’s legend as an excuse not to spend time cleaning anything. A factory patina should not be confused with destructive oxidation, like rust. And, to our knowledge, few items made of silver were ever intended by their makers to remain blackened by tarnish.

    b. A gloss or sheen; spec. that on wooden furniture produced by age and polishing.
    c. fig. An acquired accretion of an abstract quality; a superficial impression or appearance.

    In these cases: the small signs of use that, over time, make something beautifully imperfect; the ancient ‘feel’ of an antique? No. You are cleaning it, thoroughly. But small dents and surface scratches will remain.

    Soaking metal in acid as a means of cleaning it is a serious step, and should only be done according to the rules of restoration and conservation: when needed to halt or repair damage. But when you need to do it, lime juice is fast, cheap, easy, and safe. The very definition of the most effective tools we have.

  • Holidays

    We are on holidays for the week of May 18-25, 2013. Our email response time may be delayed, and orders will be filled after our return.

  • Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    One of the major issues for a fountain pen user is the constant quest for quality paper. Some time ago, the online pen community discovered, to their delight, a hitherto unkown paper: Tomoe River (pronounced toe · moe ´ eh).

    Manufactured by one of the largest Japanese paper companies, Tomoegawa, this paper is very un-Japanese in character. Where the Japanese paper traditionally always has one smooth and one rough side, Tomoe River is like a Western paper: completely smooth on both sides. Sensually smooth. Originally intended for use in mail-outs and large catalogues, it is a 52g/m2 paper, but with a very low bulk, much like what we would see in Bible paper.

    What thrills fountain pen users, however, is in it’s sizing. Referring to a chemical treatment received by most papers, sizing determines how absorbent the paper will be. In the case of pen ink, we absolutely do not want it to bleed through the page, or feather out along it’s lines. Tomoe River is astoundingly ink-proof. Even the wettest line stays crisp and clean, although it takes longer to dry.

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy
    Written on with a fire-hose of a pen: a Parker
    Vacumatic Juniorette, with a fully-flexible nib.
    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy
    And nothing shows through on the back side!

    It’s low bulk also means that a notebook made with Tomoe River paper is quite dense. In terms of page count, a journal the same size as the famous Moleskin notebook will pack in twice as many pages.

    Unfortunately, it is only available in Japan, and can only be ordered from a few sources. Add to that the difficulty of dealing with another culture, a foreign language, and overseas shipping, and getting this paper can be quite a daunting task.

    When the topic came up at the regular Toronto fountain pen “meet-up”, it was a case of jump in and do it, or do without it. So I checked my brain at the door (not put in so many words by my dear wife, but close), I volunteered to co-ordinate the buy. Fortunately a group buy had been done a few months earlier, and one of the group was happy to pass on his contacts and experience.

    The boring part was the buy itself, involving multiple emails, screwed up orders, and several Paypal transactions. The bottom line? A three week wait, and 8.3¢ per sheet. Finally the paper came and, having just spent an evening doing the fun part (re-packaging the paper), I thought I would share some photos of the process.

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    The box, slightly the worse for wear, in all it’s 60 pounds of glory. Bright yellow tape shows that customs has both confirmed that they have collected their 13%, and that no baby orangutans were nefariously hidden inside.

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    Enclosures hawking the latest paper products and their uses were inside, to tempt all Kanji-literate customers in attendance.

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    Inside, four paper-wrapped packages of paper, each 2,000 sheets. Of the four, only one was pristine. The worst was, of course, the one which was certified baby-sea-turtle free, then stuffed haphazardly back in place. Fortunately the outer box was a perfect fit, so there was minimal sliding about during the short hop from the Gateway mail processing plant to our house.

    This paper is thin enough that it is easily damaged. But even though some of the packages had torn, we only had about 60 sheets that were harmed. I’ll keep those as part of my lot, as binding them into notebooks means a fair bit of trimming waste. The damaged bits will simply be part of the trimming loss.

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    So what to do with four giant piles of paper? Most in the group have ordered in 500-sheet quantities, so it must be accurately divided. A scale would be a good choice, but the only one I have going into the fractions of a gram required measures about two inches square. However, math is our friend, and so are our fingers, which can detect differences of thousandths of an inch.

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    One 1,000-sheet ream can be split easily into two exact piles, side by side. And simply running your fingers over the two piles tells you instantly if they are the same. (Well, fine. There may be a variance of about 5 sheets. I’m not going to count 8,000 sheets of the skinniest paper you have ever seen for the sake of a couple of sheets!)

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    Pretty soon we have stacks of 500 sheets, and a couple of 1,000 sheets for the truly ambitious writers among us. But how to safely store, and transport, the paper?

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    My initial idea was to sandwich the paper between two legal-sized manila folders. This worked, but not too well.

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    Too much sloppiness for my tastes. This paper has to get hauled to a meet-up or two, probably by streetcar. It also needs to be stored, both here and at it’s final homes. Remember how fragile it is?

    Then, and epiphany!

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    Out comes the paper cutter. The tabs are cut off for a tighter fit all around, and the ends are trimmed to more closely fit the A4-sized paper.

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    Much better! A tight fit means minimal wrinkles, no rain-drops, and easier storage.

    Tomoe River Paper Group Buy

    And soon we have neat bundles, ready for delivery. Even the 1,000-sheet packages fit snugly and safely into the folders, one of which will even end up in the United Arab Emirates.

    The eagle-eyed amongst us will note that there is still one package in the background. I’m out of elastics, so the two remaining packages, for Dennis and myself, will have to wait one more day.

    It’s always fun to play with paper, and Tomoe River makes it even more of a joy. Somehow I think this won’t be the last Tomoegawa hears from us…

  • Alternatives to the Fountain Pen Network

    Many fountain pen lovers around the world are on intimate terms with the Fountain Pen Network (fpn). For a number of years, this online forum has been the dominant source of pen-related information and community. Currently some 78,000 members strong, it has hosted discussion threads on countless topics, provided a source for buying and selling information and reviews, and provided a true social network for many lonely pen lovers. Sadly, for some weeks fpn has been recently plagued with various issues rendering it variously unreliable or completely unavailable.

    What is a poor, bored, lonely pen-lover to do?

    Fortunately, there are a few other online options out there. While not as populated, or perhaps as well known, they are high-quality and constructive alternatives for anyone facing the recent fpn famine.


    Fountain Pen Board

    Fountain Pen Board was launched in 2010 by Dr. David Isaacson, of Vacumania fame. Intended specifically as an alternative to fpn, this forum has a population of around 1,300 of the most dedicated fountain pen afficionados.

    Isaacson is very much the guiding force behind this board, and it shows. The majority of sub-forums and threads are related to his great love: vintage pens. However, there are few, if any, rules & regulations, and everyone is quite easy-going, so modern pens are quite happily tolerated.

    Commercial activity is encouraged, and pens both fine and humble have been offered. Also, if you want freely-given qualified opinions on any pen-related matter, you will find them here. Historians, plastics experts, and decades of experience can all be found at fpb.


    Fountain Pen Geeks

    Fountain Pen Geeks should actually rate two mentions: an excellent community forum, and a very geeky podcast, now on episode #68.

    The fpg forum is the fastest-growing of the alternatives to fpn. Established in 2010, it boasts just under 2,000 members, and seems to be where many fpn castaways are coming ashore.

    The sub-forums range widely in topic, and include commercial postings in a classified section. The community is warm and welcoming, and a wide variety of interests are represented. Moderation is minimal, as are rules & regulations (noticing a pattern here?)

    This speed of this forum is slick to use, and a pleasure to look at, expecially after a few days of the fpn turtle-at-the-races experience.


    Fountain Pen Classifieds

    fpc, like Fountain Pen Board, is a forum whose genesis was dissatisfaction with fpn. In this case, the issue was commercialization, and the board was established in 2011 with a specific mission statement: come here to buy, sell, or trade pens.

    No rules & regulations, just capitalism; and it works. Over 1,300 members carry out a brisk trade in all sorts of pens. Your particular interest will be easy to find, as the sub-forums are well-organized and specific. Not only are there the eponymous classifieds, but sub-forums include information on all aspects of buying and selling, including real-world information, dealers’ announcements, pen shows & clubs, and more.

    So fear not, lonely pen lover! While the Fountain Pen Network is down (or as good as down, or nearly down, or nsfw), there is still hope. Good alternatives are out there, and they are healthy, happy, and full of pens and pen-lovers.

    Who knows, you might find you don’t miss fpn nearly as much as you thought you did.