Restorer's Art

Category: Tools

  • Tool Day: Nothing Beats a Good Scale

    Ink “uptake” is the term we use to describe how much ink is drawn into a pen’s reservoir when you fill it. While knowing theThis Vacumatic maxima holds a whopping 1.96 mL of ink! ink capacity of a pen is good, for a repair person, knowing it’s uptake is better. A pen with a capacity of 0.75 milliliter (mL) should draw in about that much ink. If you can measure how much ink actually gets drawn in, that is an important first step in diagnosing any number of problems (which are fodder for a future post). For many repair technicians, one of the final steps in approving a pen’s successful repair is to test the filling system.

    So, what is the best way to test a pen’s ink uptake?

    Many opinions, few solutions

    There are many, many ways that people test ink uptake. In a pen with a clear barrel or window, you can simply look at the level and guess. Some people will fill the pen, then watch how much is expelled when it is emptied. On fellow we met counted the drops that fell off the nib!

    In our experience there is only one reasonable and effective solution: a good digital scale.

    Why a Scale?

    There is one over-riding reason for using a scale to measure ink uptake: accuracy.

    The reason we can rely on a scale so definitively is because of physics. One mL of water weighs exactly one gram. So with ink being almost entirely water (in terms of mass), one mL of ink weighs one gram. If you zero out (tare) your scale with the empty pen on it, fill it, and put it back on the scale, you can easily see how much ink your pen has taken up.

    Considering that even a tenth of a gram takes up a fair bit of space in a sac or converter, we prefer a scale that reads to two decimals. Fortunately, they are pretty easy to find right now.

    We bought this one off Amazon (where brand names mean nothing; go by description instead), and they presently sell for less than Cdn$35. You can find similar ones in corner stores across inner city North America, thanks to the ever-increasing demand by the cannabis business (who would have thought?)

    What sort of features are good? Here are a few:

    • Rechargeable, because who wants to buy batteries?;
    • Reads to two decimals. Easily toggles between grams and ounces (which are far, far less accurate);
    • Has little covers, which can be used upside down to prevent things from rolling around;
    • The table size is medium, which means it can be used for other things.

    Which other things, you may ask?

    • Baking (especially salt quantities);
    • Weighing out small amounts of epoxy;
    • Soap & cosmetics making;
    • Calculating postage cost (so old-fashioned!);
    • Other things you might think of.

    A good scale is one of our most-used tools, used for every repair job. While not often mentioned in connection with pen repairs, one should be on every bench.

  • A New Thing: Tool Day

    Shop

    We are happy to announce a new feature for our languishing blog. We are often asked for recommendations as to what the best tools are for repairing pens. Many are available and, the internet being what it is, hacks and opinions are everywhere.

    So, we will try to regularly feature a tool recommendation from our own bench experience. In many cases the best and most-used tools are easily obtained, and are not at all pen-repair specific. We have found that tools can be found in the kitchen, in jewellery supply shops, art supply stores, dental offices, and in other disparate industries.

    And as a caveat: we do not shill products. We will not recommend anything in which we have any financial interest. We will stick to tools and suppliers that we ourselves use; not because they pay us, but because they are the best thing for the job, or the best supplier we can find. You will find that several suppliers come up regularly. Feel free to find your own, it matters not where; ‘your mileage may vary,’ as the saying goes.

  • Talc and Asbestos

    For over a century talc has been used as a standard dry lubricant for rubber fountain pen sacs. The slippery mineral dust helps to protect the sac from friction damage when it is depressed by a pressure bar. This lubrication is also essential for Parker Vacumatics and other pens where a sac is folded in on itself; rubber sticks to itself, and the mechanisms of these pens simply do not work without lubrication.

    Talcum Powder
    Talcum Powder

    In recent years there has been a great deal of attention given to the possibility of asbestos content in talc products. Asbestos is often found in the same deposits as talc (http://dx.doi.org/10.18103/mra.v8i5.2097), and has been proven to be a carcinogen (cancer-causing). While there are cosmetic-grade talcs, it is recommended that any talc without reputable certification as asbestos-free be assumed hazardous (Asbestos in Talc Powders and Soapstone – the Present State [2007]).

    I like my lungs. And suddenly the little puff of white coming out of a lever slit after you have replaced a sac feels ominous, instead of satisfying. None of the talc suppliers I have contacted seem able to provide information about sources, or safety. So, following the excellent advice of the German government (see link above), Restorers Art is immediately discontinuing the use of talc as a sac lubricant.

    An Excellent Alternative

    All this being said, there is good news! There is an excellent alternative dry sac lubricant.

    The Ka'bah-e Zardusht
    The Ka’bah-e Zardusht, a lifetime supply of chalk–if demolished.

    The personal care industry turned to the use of vegetable starches, like corn starch, as an alternative to talc. We investigated that as an option. We found the particle size too large, and starches turn gummy if wet, which is a terrible quality for our application (think pen leak here: eeeew!)

    We have, however, found an excellent alternative: precipitated calcium carbonate (CaCO3). This is a powdered chalk produced from limestone, and has been used for centuries in bookbinding and shoemaking. Particle size ranges from 0.2-30 μm (compared to talc at 0.2-100 μm). The “precipitated” description means that the chalk has been purified and contains nothing but CaCO3.

    We have done our own experimenting (the best kind!) and created a slurry of CaCO3 in filtered water. We let the water evaporate, then tested the newly dried CaCO3. The wetting-drying cycle did not seem to affect the lubricating quality of the lubricant in any way. Which for us is a big win! It does not dissolve in water, but rather forms a suspension.

    This slurry has a pH of about 9.0, which is alkaline. This is actually good for us, because the interior of a pen is damaged far less by alkaline conditions than acidic. (As an example, steel pressure bars, buttons, springs, or nibs will rust very quickly in acid fumes, and even corrode right away when bathed in acid. Alkali won’t affect these materials this way.)

    Another advantage is that CaCO3 is inexpensive, and fairly easily available. And a 100 gram bag will be enough to last for years of new sacs.

    While the chances of contracting cancer from a bit of talc in a fountain pen may be minimal, we like to play it safe. CaCO3 is a cheap, effective, and available alternative. So why not choose safe? After all, with all the nasty chemicals out there, there is nothing wrong with making sure the pens we carry with us, and use every day, are the safest things around!

  • All About Nib Smoothing

    A scratchy nib is one of the most common issues with a fountain pen. Probably 70% of our repairs include some kind of nib repair. As a result, the topic is one of the most enduring in the pen community, both in real life and online.

    As with so many popular subjects, opinions abound, and thus questions. Having repaired thousands of pens over the last twelve years, I thought I would publish this list of nib smoothing “frequently asked questions”.

    Why is my pen scratchy?

    Don't try this at home-or anywhere else!
    Don’t try this at home-or anywhere else!

    The simple answer is: damage. The tines of a nib, and the tipping on the end, must remain carefully aligned. This allows for proper ink flow, and smooth writing. Nibs made of gold can be bent–some quite easily–out of alignment. Normal use shouldn’t be a problem, but there will be a problem if you: drop your pen; try to flex it too hard; insert anything foreign (like a thin knife, perhaps to clean it out).

    One defect that causes scratchiness is when one of the tines is (even slightly) twisted in relation to the other. Unless the tines are properly parallel first, nothing else will make it a smooth writer. We have seen tipping material sanded away to nothing, because the person working on it didn’t realize the tines were misaligned. How can you tell if this is the problem? Unless you have a good source of magnification, you will have a difficult time knowing. A loupe or magnifier with a power of at least 15-20x is needed to tell for certain. And even then it takes a practiced eye.

    Are some pens more prone to scratchiness than others?

    The more history a pen has, the more likely it is to be damaged in this way; a vintage pen found in an antique shop will probably need some nib work! Also, any nib with gold content over 14k (58.5% gold content) will be more prone to damage.*

    What is the best way to smooth my scratchy nib?

    Honestly, take it to a professional. Nib smoothing is one of the most challenging aspects of pen repair. It is easy to make the problem worse. And, because there is a limited amount of tipping on each pen, you could actually destroy the nib.

    But I really, really want to smooth my own nibs! Do you have any suggestions?

    I do, but proceed at your own risk!

    1. Start with pens you don’t care about. You will destroy the first few.
    2. Richard Binder has kindly and generously provided the notes from his nib smoothing workshop. They are excellent, and include detailed instructions for general nib smoothing. Read them thoroughly before you begin. If you do, you will destroy one less pen when practicing.

    Where can I get nib smoothing tools?

    You don’t need many tools. Here is what I use (with the caveat that this is a steep learning curve, and you embark on it at your own risk). I have no affiliation with any of the links below, and this content is not sponsored.

    • 3M Micro-mesh sanding pads, with foam backing. I use three grits: 12000, 6000, and 3600.
    • Strips of wet/dry sandpaper. I use 1000 grit. This is for smoothing sharp interior corners of the tipping material.
    • Brass foil, for cleaning out the slit. I often use the 0.0015″ thickness. The variety pack (listed at the link) will keep you going for a long time.
    • A magnifier. What you get depends on your needs and preferences. Try to get something hands-free, like a visor. Don’t ask what I use, because it probably cost more than your car. ; )
    • Mini-pliers. Only use pliers with smooth jaws, and use some of your new sandpaper to smooth the sharp edges. The best are small modelling pliers used by the mini-fig crowd (think Warhammer). You get what you pay for (a good brand is GodHand, from Japan).
    • Good lighting. If you have a ring light for zoom that would work well.

    Are there any secret tips that no one talks about?

    It mostly has to do with experience and motor-muscle memory, which can’t really be talked about. However, I have a few pieces of advice.

    First, if you have struggled for what seems like hours, and the nib is still scratchy no matter what you do, the tipping is twisted. I find this happens about half the time. This is an advanced job, not for beginners: send it away.

    Parker "51" nib detail
    A Parker "51" can’t be worked on like this!

    Second, a warning about hooded pens, like Parker 51s. Most nibs can be worked on while still in place on the pen. Hooded pens are the exception. If you try to work on one of these with the hood on, you will almost certainly damage the hood.

    Third, super fine and flexy nibs are advanced. You need the experience of working on firm, broader nibs before tackling the subtleties of a nib that moves around while you write. And small tipping means less chance for failure, and the need for greater magnification.

    In summary, nib smoothing is a challenging, but important pen repair skill. Much of that skill is learned the hard way, by practicing and absorbing collateral damage (i.e.: dead pens). But with persistence and hard work you can learn how, and never have to endure a scratchy pen again!

    *To be fair, it’s more complicated than this. Gold alloys can be hardened, both in manufacture, and over time through use. But the more gold in the mix, the less hard the alloy will be. A 22k gold nib will never harden enough to be flexy, no matter what the manufacturer claims. You can’t pay enough to change the laws of physics! [Go back]

  • Free Victorian Pen Catalogue Online

    Information is gold; sometimes more than figuratively.

    We came across a lovely Victorian pen catalogue in our favourite collection, archive.org. Titled, in fine Victorian fashion, History of the invention and illustrated process of making Foley’s diamond pointed gold pens with complete illustrated catalogue[…]

    The first half of the book is an excellent catalogue of Foley’s products: dip pens & holders, propelling pencils, toothpick & ear spoon combos (yes, really), and other treasures. There is some lovely information to be parsed from these pages. For example, did you know that some pen holders were designed to have the tail end pulled off, so that the two pieces would fit into a leather fitted box? Or that propelling pencils were originally referred to as “pencil cases”?

    Foleys nib brazing

    But what really shines for us is the second half of the book (about 40 pages), where Foley happily explains each step in the manufacture of gold nibs. With seventeen illustrations of workers at their benches, with their tools! (To be fair, one is of accountants and the boss. But close enough.)

    Being a product of the Victorian age, rhetoric abounds; being a product of America, there is plenty of flag-waving British denegration. And taking place at the birth of real salesmanship, there are a few gems, such as the apparently well-known ‘fact’ that users of steel pens (as opposed to gold pens) lose the use of their writing hands due to errant electrical currents! Nonetheless, this book is still an important resource for us today.

    Most of the tools used at that time are quite simple, and can be had very affordably by us. Many 19th century nibs were used for decades, and are still very sound today. The methods used in manufacturing those high-quality products are proven here to be quite simple, which belies the voodoo-like claims of many modern manufacturers.

    In fact, our conviction—after reading Foley—is even stronger: newly-manufactured pens have only a shadow of the quality they once had. Sub-standard modern materials, bad design, and shoddy workmanship plague even the highest-priced pens.

    Reading these descriptions, and seeing those tools, is an empowering thing. There is no reason why anyone with a quick mind and stable hand cannot accomplish even the most demanding of manufacture, or repairs. Pens and pencils weren’t born, they were made. They can be un-made, and they can be re-made. And, most of all, they can be appreciated.

    Foleys Title

    A complete copy of Foley can be found at https://archive.org/details/historyofinventi00fole. It is a large file, best reviewed on a more powerful computer. Despite the fact that some enterprising people sell it, it is in the public domain; this copy came from the US Library of Congress. You can legally download it, copy it, distribute it, and irritate profiteers with it.

  • Public Domain Pen Documents Now Online

    Public Domain Pen Documents Now Online

    For a look at a loud conversation about the legal and ethical issues pertaining to these documents, go to: http://fountainpenboard.com/forum/index.php?/topic/6174-public-domain-pen-documents-now-online

    Parker Pens 1929 Catalog

    It is always nice when someone decides to share. And when the thing shared is pen information, it is beyond nice: it’s a public service.

    We were browsing through our favourite host of online information, the Internet Archive and came across the fruits of some generous soul’s labour: high quality scans of vintage fountain pen & pencil documents. Catalogues and service manuals for some of the biggest names in the pen business. These are all public domain items, some in full colour, and represent a very valuable collection.

    The importance of this information cannot be understated. We can often pinpoint the age of a pen by it’s appearance in a catalogue. Or, we may be able to determine exactly which pen would have gone with which desk base. We have discovered the exact length of the neck ribbons originally supplied by Waterman. The list goes on, and that’s just the catalogues!

    The real treasure is in the service manuals. Detailed breakdowns of pens. Step-by-step instructions as to repair methods. Illustrations of tools designed & provided by the manufacturers. This information is a lifeline for old pens.

    So our thanks goes out to the kind soul who, rather than hoarding this information—or choosing to profit by selling it—chose to enrich us all. We will be monitoring archive.org closely; if this generous soul sees fit to add more documents, we will update our list here.

    The documents are posted to archive.org in groupings, which are not chronological and are named a bit oddly. We have decided to list them a little more intuitively here, so it’s easier to find what you are specifically interested in. It should be noted that the documents are available in a number of formats. Our headings here are linked to the corresponding archive.org conglomeration pages, while the individual documents listed are directly hot-linked to the pdf copies of the publications, directly on the host servers (a practice which is, incidentally, highly encouraged by the folks hosting the files).

    Parker
    Waterman

    NOTE: It has come to our attention that some of the documents listed above may have come from the online library of the Pen Collectors of America. This organization has used the library as a means of attracting new members. We appreciate that this information being freely available is a significant blow to the pca.

    This being said, there are several things to keep in mind. First, the documents hosted at archive.org are all in the public domain, which means that they are owned by no one, and are free for anyone to use. They were either never copyrighted, or their copyright has expired.

    Second, the issue of who controls information is the subject of great debate, both on the internet, and in the ‘real world’. Organizations like The Internet Archive have taken the stance that access to public domain works should not be used to enrich or empower. Large institutions such as universities, and companies like Ithaka Harbors (a non-profit company which controls jstor) take the opposing view: that access to knowledge should be controlled, for profit or purposes of accreditation.

    There have been no legal rulings on the matter, either in the usa, or in Canada (where we are). This means that simply providing the files for free is not theft, and the issue of what constitutes ownership is not relevant.

    This particular cat is out of the bag. It’s not our cat, nor was it our bag. Issues of whether these files should be available should be addressed to The Internet Archive We are going to leave this index page up, so long as the files are hosted by them.

    We also would like to express appreciation to all who provide pen information, either for profit, or not. As expressed above, more information means more interest in pens, wider & more complete knowledge of pens, and fewer pens consigned to the garbage. And no one should complain about that!

    We should also point out that the Pen Collectors of America is an excellent resource for anyone interested in pens. We encourage everyone to investigate membership there which includes, of course, access to a stunningly complete online library.